Am Panke, Mitte Berlin

The German Secret Service (BND) building is an imposing presence; the surveillance cameras and bizarre, metallic palm trees help. This style of architecture- block form, plain facades, narrow inset windows framed by thick stone- is ubiquitous in the very new Berlin. A small strip of a park runs along the Panke- a small tributary of the Spree- beside the Secret Service.

To the left is a heating plant. The gas tanks are painted- Trompe l'oeil- to blend into a new apartment complex. Around the corner is a cafe that sells U.S. microbrews, and- I am told- the best coffee in the area. "The best beers are in North America, not Germany.  Germany has been sitting on its ass for the last 100 years," the proprietor says.  The coffee is unforgiving and astringent.

At the end of the park, the Panke narrows and can be crossed with a leap. A large mound is on the opposite side- constituted of what, one never knows in Berlin (debris from Park construction? from the war?). There are several paths to the top.

This irregular patch of land is one of Berlin's countless deserted lots- and this one is particularly strange, given the density of construction and the proximity of the BND.

The lot- which I believe is slated to be made into a park extension- was the site of military barracks in the early part of the 20th century.  The lot continues until it is blocked by construction at the Bundeswehrkrankenhaus- a complex that was built in the 1850s, and became a police hospital during the Nazi era.

Its very quiet here; this is one of my favourite spots in Mitte Berlin

Heizkraftwerk Berlin-Reuter

...consists of two coal-fired power stations on the Northwest edge of the city- Siemenstadt.  The older, designed by Siemens architect Hans Hertlein, was built in 1931 to supply electricity to Western Berlin. Despite its strategic importance, the plant was largely spared destruction during the war.

Nevertheless, Soviet occupiers began dismantling the plant for parts in May 1945.  In July, Allied powers took control of the region of Berlin, and began rebuilding the plant.

Then came the division of the city, which cut off West Berlin from power stations in the East.  The plant took on particular importance for the city.  Parts for its reconstruction were supplied via the Berlin Airlift- 1416 tons of equipment over 580 flights.  The plant was operational by late 1959, and became the most important supplier of electricity for West Berlin.

The plant was named for the then mayor of West Berlin, Ernst Reuter.  Today, the plant supplies 165 MW- small to mid size against other plants in the city- and it sits in the shadow of its newer sister plant.

The plant is easy to approach from the Southwest, opposite side of the Spree.  Off a tiny path and through a thin strip of woods, one reaches a canal.  A small barge filled with coal is docked. A very peaceful spot on a Saturday.

It is not difficult to approach from the Northeast- one follows a winding road that leads to another Schrebergarten- which seem to be abundant on the edge of large industrial sites in Berlin.

Nowa Huta

Poland's second largest steelmill, Tadeusz Sendzimir Steelworks, sits beside this large planned city on the edge of Krakow.  My first attempt to get close to the mill- in 1992- brought me no closer than a kilometer.  I set out again at 7:00 AM, on Tram 4 ["which direction?" we ask a ticket clerk.  "Tram 4!" she says, with an impatient, Slavic inflection.]

The gateway into the Steelworks is framed by two crenulated, Soviet-era buildings that have posted signs forbidding photographs.  But I am again unable to get any closer than a kilometer. Beyond the gates is a bus depot for transporting workers in this sprawling campus.

In the distance, one smokestack is active.  Maps show there is a backroad way of getting somewhat closer.

We turn back, but not before noticing two paintings of a praying Hasidic Jew, selling for a few zlotys in the magazine Kiosk at the terminus of "Tram 4!"

Sosnowiec

...lies on the Northeastern Edge of Katowice.  There one finds a scattering of heavy industry.  It would be easy to pass through and miss its charm.  Small brick houses in hollows- flaking stucco- heavy coal smoke issuing from chimneys at dusk; fresh, colourful murals beside a municipal parking lot.

We navigated our way toward a towering and modern smokestack, leaving the car in the lot of light industry.  From there, we passed residences with castle-like embellishments. Resting within a strip of warehouses and workshops (and close to a very large plant)- this might seem a vain gesture.  But behind this building is a large yard- spare and built from simple with materials, but dignified and impeccably manicured.




We followed a narrow path, across the train tracks, to a large clearing.  On one edge is a pile of slag heaps- a thin rope demarcating no entry- though there couldn't be many takers- the field is desolate.  I stand on one of the heaps to photograph a large modern plant; the pile is unexpectedly spongey.

My companion, indulging my fondness for watertowers, spots one on the horizon.  Dusk is near; we need to be in Krakow for a dinner engagement.  We wend our way through Sosnowiec- many U turns- past an abandoned sanatorium- towards the top of a hill.

The tower is a fine specimen.  It is framed by a stand of birches and sits in a large, unfenced field.  There is no sign of industry nearby.  Rebar is exposed. There is an easy entry point into this water tower.  It is very tempting for me, but we opt instead on the side of the law.  There are- based on my research- at least two other water towers to be discovered in this vicinity, but those will have to wait for a future visit.

Now the task is to get back to Krakow. The traffic begins quite some distance outside the city.  There is no automated way of paying tolls.  The conversation turns to television shows, colleagues, and the way Pope "Juan Pablo II"- as my companion knows him- transformed the Polish relationship toward the Jews.

Nikiszowiec

Nikiszowiec, a short distance north of Katowice, was built as a coal miners' settlement, 1908-1918.  It feels remote- in time and location.  The streets are strangely tidy; each window painted with pleasant red trim, with lace curtains.  Maybe every 3rd window has a plant.  This, I suppose, is the Silesian penchant for order and cleanliness.  Though the district has become a tourist destination- mostly for other Poles and Russians- it is still not quite a destination for others.  

In the main square, there is a small bakery.  The Mohnkuchen was dense and earthy- surprisingly good.  Nikiszowiec sits in the shadow of an active coal mine- covering vast acreage- KWK Wieczorek Szyb Pulaski.  In front of the mine's gates is a small board- all Polish- commemorating the history of region's industry. Beside that sits a small, shack of a museum.  One can see the wheel of the minehead, rolling up, rolling down.  Through the gates, there are trams and artefacts, in various states of disrepair.  I was able to get a few shots of the complex, before two female guards- not looking for small talk- chased us away.  

Back in Nikiszowiec, I had a micro- exchange with three school children who were said- by my Polish host- to be learning English.  But when pressed, only one volunteered to speak English. They were whisked by an authority figure behind the doors of their school.  From there, I was able to capture the glorious watertower of Nikiszowiec.